Hats, Hats, Hats for Career Girls! – Lady Elewys of Finchingefeld, JdL, GdS

Originally published May 25th on my first blog, then Oct 1, 2015 on the more recent blog, and now here.

I discovered in my attempt to research fillets and barbettes, that if you Google “Barbette” you come up with images of a drag queen from the 1920s. Not exactly what I was looking for, but interesting nonetheless.

After attending May Crown a couple weeks ago, it came to my attention that a few of my garments needed some repairs and upgrades. One shift needed a longer neckline–it was cutting me off at the throat. One shift had a couple of seams that had popped–one on the arm and one in the armpit. Then the apron dress…linen…gorgeous peacock blue color…entirely sewn by hand…and the thread for the seams was not strong enough by itself; it snapped in a couple places. I needed to finish those seams to avoid it happening again.

After making all those repairs, I decided to beef up my 12th century outfit, just in case I have occasion to wear it in the near future. I usually do something in the Viking sphere or something a little later period, like Flemish peasant. Since we just finished the Baronial polling two days ago, and my coronet candidate partner is 12th century, I am trying to keep a positive attitude for the outcome and be prepared for the season. I wanted us to dress in matching eras, although my garments might lean a little toward the 13th & 14th century instead of 12th. (Post script: we didn’t win the polling.)

The next hat I made was a pleated fillet.

Directions I used from http://www.caitlinsclothing.com/

Step 1

Measure your head with a tape measure and add 1″.

Step 2

Set the tape measure on its edge on a sheet of buckram, so that it arcs from the selvage of the buckram to the cut side, straddling a corner. Using a pencil, trace this line.

Step 3

finding the radial Measure from the corner of the buckram to a few points on the line to get an average measurement. Use this radial measurement to get an even circle-segment drawn on the buckram.

Step 4

Decide how tall the fillet should be. A good height is 2.5″. Add this number to the radial measurement, and again trace the curve onto the buckram.

Step 5

join the seam Cut the buckram and join together at the short edge to make the fillet.

Step 6

To cover the coif with pleated fabric, cut out a strip of fabric twice your head measurement, and twice as wide as the fillet is tall, plus seam allowances. Iron this fabric into pleats before applying to the fillet.

Step 7

pleat the fabric Pin the pleats onto the middle of the fillet’s band, all the way around. Carefully fold the pleated fabric over the top and bottom. The pleats may expand or contract because of the angle of the fillet. Pin securely, then baste the covering together on the inside of the fillet.

What goes underneath is the same smaller coif and a barbette.

After a bit of experimentation, I also made a St. Brigitta cap. I’m not entirely happy with the fit–I think it’s too big. I’ll have to keep experimenting. I know I should have tucked all my hair into it, which would change the shape of the hat, too.